Cos d'Estournal Dinner (26-Apr-2012)

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Cos d'Estournal Dinner with Jean Guillaume Prats at 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo

I got the invitation from the wine merchant. Yes, a sure sign that I have bought too much wine!!!

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Before dinner.

Jean Guillaume Prats speaking.

The chef of 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo paying a visit to us.

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The Cos d'Estournal red wines:

Small tasting glasses from left to right: 2009, 2010, & 2011
Medium glasses from left to right: 2003 & 2005
Tall glassed from left to right: 1982, 1985, & 1995

The white wine glass on the right is 2008 Cos d'Estournal Blanc.

The champagne glass on the left is a whatever cru.

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And I just realized that the 2003 & 2005 one also got very high RP score.

[wongyan]

真令人羨慕!!! Buy too much??  A Happy problem !!!

[chin]

真令人羨慕!!! Buy too much??  A Happy problem !!!

Or you may wonder whether you have been a fool.
You know, I never envy the VIPs at casino...

[chin]

My own comment to my friends somewhere else...

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Of the many vintages tasted, the ones that made the deepest impression on me:

1. 2005, for me it's very good already, and enjoyable now.

2. 1982, I don't have many experience with old Bordeaux, but a few older ones I tried felt flat and mellow. But the 1982 Cos I tasted was still full of vitality (I don't know if this is the proper wine term, but in Chinese 非常有活力).

3. 2009, lots of stuff there. Maybe this is what the American called a "Big Wine", because it remained me a wine I bought in Sonoma. I think the 2009 is not over rated quality wise.

4. 2003, people around me liked the 2003 better than the 2005, but not me. I wonder if I am too used to have strong tea, thus tannins does not bother me too much?!

5. 2008 Cos d'Estournal Blanc is very enjoyable. I don't usually like to drink white wine, and this one is good.

The 2010 for me is a bit sour, the back of my tongue felt a bit sharp like drinking soda. The 2011 has strong rough tannin, felt not integrated yet. Maybe like MaJeff said, it's simple too early.

For me all the vintages tasted were good, and if not because of the comparison right there, I would take any of them (maybe except the 2 new ones) any day.

I don't own any Cos d'Estournal at the moment other than a few bottles of 2009.

[wongyan]

Or you may wonder whether you have been a fool.
You know, I never envy the VIPs at casino...

no, no, souvenirs packs from HKJC every year is still something enviable!!

[chin]

Comment from the son of Farr owner.

http://farrvintners.com/blog.php?blog=127

Cos Dinner

Tuesday, 29 May 2012 by Ben Browett

In late April, I was returning from my time "down under" where I’d worked at some fantastic wineries and checked the quality of Farr Vintners' great New Zealand imports along the way. However, I will admit, I was pining for some Claret and arguably saved the best for last as I happened to be in Shanghai & Hong Kong for two fantastic wine dinners hosted by the ever-engaging Director of Cos d’Estournel, Jean-Guillaume Prats.

The Park Hyatt Shanghai and Otto e Mezze restaurant in Central, Hong Kong, were the two venues for the first showings of 2011, 2010 & (the sublime) 2009 served together for the first time outside of the chateau. With everyone seated, we started off with the two most recent vintages, 2011 & 2010, alongside each other.

Jean-Guillaume described how massive sacrifices had been made in the selection process with the 2011 due to a difficult year (with a warm spring and cool summer creating small berries with thick skins). As a result, only 9000 cases have been produced (half of 2010 & 2009). A deep colour and intense, smoky nose is followed by heavy tannin on the palate but balanced by black cherry, Asian spices and aniseed. A good effort in a challenging year, 17.

The 2010 on the other hand is a big wine with lots of fruit, as is generally the norm in the upper echelons of Bordeaux. The wine is still incredibly structured due to the firm tannins and allowed me to use my favourite wine term- ‘an iron fist in a velvet glove’. Lots of dark fruit laced with spice and black olive. Not ready, but a powerhouse, 18.5. It was very interesting to try these two wines side by side and we were also lucky enough to try the wonderfully aromatic Cos d’Estournel Blanc 2008 along with Iberico Ham.

Having tried the two youngest wines on offer, we turned our attention to two of the starlets from the ‘noughties’ in the form of 2005 and 2003. The former is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon which instantaneously reveals itself as a serious wine. Big tannin balanced with layers of dark fruit, burnt toast and black truffle result in a gorgeous wine that is still closed and won’t be fully singing for a few years yet, 18.

While the 2003 has had the benefit of two extra years of maturity, the vintage as a whole is less structured than the 2005’s and this was drinking really well. Exuberant, rich and intense was my tasting note…and that was just on the nose. Black cherry and black pepper create seductively spicy flavours on the palate wrapped up beautifully thanks to the softened tannins. Very open and approachable and a good pairing alongside Homemade Pappardelle with lamb and mushroom ragout, 18.5.

With these top wines still on our lips, we went a bit older as 1995 & 1985 appeared. For the ’95, I found Mr Parker’s tasting note particularly on the money- ‘gobs of black fruits intermixed with toast pain grillé scents and boatload of spice’. Leather and Cigar Box aromas on the finish left a smile on my face, 18.5

The 1985 was a real mixed bag with red and black fruits giving it a lush body while cedar wood and mahogany characters gave it a classier, sophisticated finish. Has benefited form ageing but I wouldn’t give it too much longer, 18. Both these wines impressed us and went down even faster with incredibly tender rib-eye steak.

As soon as I had arrived at the restaurant, I had started telling everyone in my vicinity how fantastic the final pairing of the evening was (having tried them in Shanghai the night before). Alongside a plate of Italian Cheese, we were served the 1982 and amazing 2009…and they didn’t disappoint. The 1982 is such a gorgeous a wine that I had to ask for a drop more as I’d forgotten to write a tasting note, I was enjoying it so much. A deep black colour (amazing for a wine now 30 years old) is followed by a seductive, smoky nose. Black fruit, wild flowers, liquorice and spice form some of the flavours in a wine with more layers than a Knickerbocker Glory. Chanterelle mushrooms, pepper and a silky finish combine beautifully for my wine of the night, 19.5+.

This was up against stiff competition though in the form of the monumental 2009 Cos d’Estournel which has picked up so many plaudits across the world. This wine is incredibly rich with deep, developed flavours of dark fruit, leather, cigar and black cherry. It is balanced superbly with smooth tannins which are not at all overpowering. ‘One of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted’ is the quote which has dominated the prestige surrounding this wine, but for me, it is incredible to try such a powerful, young wine that is still expressive and attractive in the mouth. If the 1982 is an Aston Martin, this is a Lamborghini. Although I preferred the 1982 on the night, as it has had the benefit of time, the 2009 is real first-growth quality and shows the enormous steps being made by Jean-Guillaume at Cos, 19.5.
Ben Browett and Jean-Guillaume Prats

In a trip where I had jumped out of a plane, surfed and bungee-jumped, I struggled to think if I’d been as excited as I was when trying this incredible line-up of wines from one of the most consistently performing chateaux in Bordeaux. Thanks must go to Shanghai Park Hyatt & Otto e Mezze for fantastic food and service and to Jo and her team in Hong Kong for their meticulous planning of both dinners. Special thanks to Jean-Guillaume for sparing the time to talk us through the wines. It was a fantastic evening.